Place side 4 against the back fence and line side marked 1 with the saw blade, move the sled forward through the blade to make a cut along side 1 removing a small amount of material. This scrap piece doesn't need to be square to begin with, the 5-cut method can handle any scrap piece of any shape. Start with a rectangular scrap piece of wood and label each side 1-4 counterclockwise. To check the accuracy of the sled we'll use the 5-cut method, cutting a piece of scrap 5 times, rotating after each cut, to see the deviation from perpendicular.īy making multiple subsequent cuts on the same piece of wood, the resulting 5th cut will have magnified the error and show us our deviation. Turn off saw and de-energize for the next steps. Kerf is the material that is removed when cutting and it's equal to the thickness of the blade, this is described in more detail in the Table Saw Class. Start the saw and slowly raise the blade until it's about 1" higher than the surface of your plywood base, steadying the plywood with your other hand (away from the blade) as needed to prevent the plywood from wandering during the cut. Place the sled into the mitre track and place the plywood directly over the lowered blade. We'll be bringing the blade up through the plywood base to create a reference cut which we'll align the back fence to.
With your saw de-energized remove the insert and remove the riving knife, then place the insert back over the blade and lower the blade completely into the table. The back fence needs to be perpendicular to the saw blade and perfectly square to make accurate cuts. Before gluing on the sled back fence, which needs to be square to the blade, we'll need to make a reference cut.
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